Although widely used in leather-related discourse, genuine leather is perhaps the most misunderstood term in the leather industry, if not the entire fashion world.
You’ll see it stamped on leather products worldwide, from Italian leather handbags to inexpensive belts and shoes found in bustling Indian leather markets.
But what does genuine leather mean? For many, the phrase suggests exceptional quality. In reality, that’s rarely the case. Read our thoughts on this complex topic below, and prepare for a few surprises.
Contents
What is genuine leather?
What is genuine leather made of?
Characteristics of genuine leather
Advantages of genuine leather
Disadvantages of genuine leather
Uses of genuine leather
Genuine leather care
Genuine leather: final thoughts & buying advice
What is genuine leather?
Genuine leather is real leather, but it is typically the lowest quality among leather grades. Made from the lower layers of the hide, often called “split leather” or “corrected-grain leather,” it lacks the strength and durability of higher-grade cuts.
The term genuine leather is widely used and sometimes misused because there is no universal system for classification. As a result, it can be very misleading and give little insight into a product’s actual quality. A wallet labelled genuine leather may look appealing and carry a higher price, but it might offer only a short lifespan.
Is genuine leather real leather?
For those wondering if genuine leather is real leather, the answer is yes. Unlike synthetic or faux alternatives, genuine leather is made from animal hide. However, while it is technically real, it does not represent the highest quality. The term is often used as a marketing label for lower-grade leather, typically sourced from the inner layers of the hide rather than the topmost, strongest part. Thus, it offers consumers a more affordable entry point to owning a real leather product, but it lacks key features such as natural grain, breathability and the ability to develop a leather patina.
What is genuine leather made of?
Genuine leather is made from the layers of animal hide beneath the outer surface. When a hide is split during processing, the top layer, known as full-grain leather, is the strongest and most durable. The lower layers, often called split leather, form the basis of most genuine leather products.
This material is usually buffed, sanded, and sometimes coated with synthetic finishes to create a uniform look. While this makes it more versatile in appearance and easier to manufacture, it also means genuine leather lacks the natural markings and robust structure of higher-quality cuts. As a result, genuine leather is generally softer and thinner, but also less resistant to wear over time.
Explaining different grades of leather
When a hide arrives at the tannery, it is usually too thick for use and is split into layers. The top layer is full-grain leather, the highest quality, known for its strength, natural surface, and unique markings. It develops a beautiful patina over time, a soft sheen that enhances character and depth.
Full-grain leather can be lightly sanded to create top-grain leather, which has a smoother, more uniform appearance while retaining durability. The lower layers become split leather, often finished or coated to improve the look and feel. This is what most genuine leather products are made from, offering a softer but less robust alternative.
At Carl Friedrik, only full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather is used to ensure a natural finish, exceptional durability and lasting appeal.
Full-grain leather vs. genuine leather
Full-grain leather and genuine leather differ significantly in quality, durability and appearance. Full-grain leather is the highest grade, using the strongest part of the hide with its natural surface intact. It is celebrated for its long lifespan, rich character and ability to develop a beautiful patina over time.
Genuine leather, by contrast, is made from the lower layers of the hide. While it is more affordable and widely available, it is much weaker, more prone to damage, and lacks the unique surface character of full grain.
The table below summarises these key differences between full-grain leather vs. genuine leather:
| Genuine leather | Full Grain leather | |
|---|---|---|
| Durability | Poor | Long-lasting (up to a lifetime) |
| Price | Inexpensive | High |
| Appearance | Soft and velour-like in raw state, but appearance varies depending on finishing treatments | Unique, natural look, blemishes & imperfections visible |
| Physical properties | Weak, thin, prone to peeling, stretching and cracking | Patina development, smooth surface, strong, supple and flexible |
| Commonly used for | Cheap, low-quality leather goods, upholstery and linings | Bags, wallets, belts, shoes, heavy-duty items like utility belts |
| Overall quality | Low grade | Highest grade |
Top grain leather vs. genuine leather
Top grain leather is another high-quality option, second only to full grain. It is created by refining full-grain leather, removing imperfections for a more uniform and polished appearance. While slightly less durable than full grain, it still offers excellent strength and a refined finish, making it popular for luxury goods.
Genuine leather, on the other hand, remains a lower-grade choice, valued primarily for its lower cost rather than performance or aesthetics. It does not develop a patina and is more prone to wear and tear.
See the table below for a detailed comparison of top grain leather vs. genuine leather:
| Genuine Leather | Top grain Leather | |
|---|---|---|
| Durability | Poor | Long-lasting |
| Price | Inexpensive | Medium-high |
| Appearance | Soft and velour-like in raw state, but appearance varies depending on finishing treatments | Uniform, no imperfections, polished finish |
| Physical properties | Weak, thin, prone to peeling, stretching and cracking | Plastic-like texture, soft, no patina development, strong |
| Commonly used for | Cheap, low-quality leather goods, upholstery and linings | Luxury goods like briefcases, handbags, purses and wallets |
| Overall quality | Low grade | Second highest grade |
Bonded leather vs. genuine leather
Bonded leather and genuine leather are both considered lower-grade options, but they differ in how they are produced and in overall quality. Bonded leather is made from leftover leather scraps and fibres, which are shredded and reconstituted using adhesives, then coated with a synthetic layer to mimic the look of real leather. It contains only a small percentage of actual leather and is often seen as the lowest quality among leather types.
Genuine leather, while still lower-grade, is at least made from continuous layers of animal hide, offering slightly better durability and a more authentic feel. However, it still lacks the strength, breathability and character found in higher-grade leathers.
Below is a table outlining the main differences between bonded leather vs. genuine leather:
| Genuine leather | Bonded leather | |
|---|---|---|
| Durability | Poor | Very poor |
| Price | Inexpensive | Cheapest |
| Appearance | Soft and velour-like in raw state, varies with finishing | Highly uniform, artificial surface |
| Physical properties | Weak, thin, prone to peeling, stretching and cracking | Weakest structure, prone to flaking and peeling |
| Commonly used for | Low-quality goods, linings, and upholstery | Budget furniture, inexpensive accessories, and book covers |
| Overall quality | Low grade | Lowest grade |
Characteristics of genuine leather
Genuine leather is typically made from split leather, sourced from the inner layers of the hide rather than the tougher outer surface. As a result, it lacks the dense fibre structure that gives higher-grade leathers their strength and longevity. While often treated to improve flexibility and appearance, genuine leather remains less durable, more prone to cracking and peeling, and offers limited breathability. These qualities make it a more affordable yet less resilient choice compared to full-grain or top-grain leather.
Durability
Genuine leather is generally made from split leather, which comes from the lower layers of the hide. Unlike full-grain or top-grain leather, it lacks the dense fibre structure that gives leather its natural strength. As a result, it is far less robust and tends to wear out much faster. A genuine leather wallet or bag, for example, might last only one to three years with daily use, whereas a full-grain leather piece can last decades, even a lifetime, with proper care.
Flexibility
Compared to higher grades, genuine leather is less flexible and supple. While chemical treatments and coatings can temporarily improve softness, the material tends to develop stretch marks and lose shape over time. Its thinness allows for more design versatility but also makes it more susceptible to peeling and cracking.
Breathability
Genuine leather has low breathability due to its weaker structure and heavy surface finishes. This makes it less comfortable to wear in warm or humid conditions. Unlike full-grain leather, which allows air to circulate naturally, genuine leather traps heat and moisture, which can affect both comfort and longevity.
Appearance
In its raw state, genuine leather has a soft, velour-like texture. However, it is usually heavily treated or coated to create a more uniform, attractive surface. While this makes it visually versatile, it lacks the natural character and depth of higher-quality leathers and does not develop a patina over time.
Smell and texture
Genuine leather still carries a natural leather scent, although it may be less pronounced due to chemical treatments. Its texture is generally softer but less substantial, often feeling thinner and less luxurious to the touch than full-grain or top-grain alternatives.
Advantages of genuine leather
While genuine leather does not offer the same longevity or depth of character as premium grades, it does have some notable advantages for certain uses.
Cost-effective
One of the main appeals of genuine leather is its affordability. Compared to full-grain or top-grain options, it offers a more accessible way to own real leather without the premium price tag.
Visually versatile
Genuine leather is often heavily finished or coated, allowing it to take on a wide range of colours and textures. This makes it easy to achieve a uniform, polished look that can suit various styles and products.
Lightweight
Because it is thinner and less dense than higher-grade leathers, genuine leather tends to be lighter. This can be beneficial for items like bags, jackets or accessories where weight is a consideration.
Easier to manufacture
The softer, more pliable nature of genuine leather makes it easier to work with during production. It can be cut, shaped and finished more easily, helping to reduce manufacturing complexity and cost.
Widespread availability
Due to its lower cost and simpler production, genuine leather is widely available across many product categories, from furniture and footwear to bags and belts. This makes it a convenient choice for both manufacturers and consumers.
Disadvantages of genuine leather
While genuine leather offers certain practical and aesthetic benefits, it also comes with notable drawbacks that are important to consider before making a purchase.
Shorter lifespan
Genuine leather is less durable than higher grades. Its weaker structure means it’s more likely to show signs of wear within a few years, especially with frequent use.
Susceptible to damage
This type of leather is prone to peeling, cracking and stretching over time. While surface treatments may delay these effects, they cannot fully prevent them.
Low breathability
Due to its dense finish and lack of natural grain, genuine leather does not breathe well. This makes it less suitable for warm climates or high-contact use, such as in clothing or upholstery.
Surface-level finish
Genuine leather often relies on heavy coatings to achieve a uniform appearance. While this can improve aesthetics, it masks the natural qualities of the material and prevents it from developing a patina.
Environmental concerns
Cheaper production methods and the use of synthetic coatings in genuine leather often involve harsher chemicals and generate more waste. These practices can raise environmental concerns, particularly when compared to vegetable-tanned, full-grain leather.
Uses of genuine leather
Genuine leather is widely used in products where affordability and appearance are prioritised over longevity. Common examples include fashion accessories, belts, wallets, footwear, furniture and entry-level leather goods. Manufacturers of these items favour genuine leather because it is a cost-effective and adaptable material.
By applying finishing treatments, dyes and embossing the exterior to imitate a full-grain leather-like texture, producers add a veneer of quality to genuine leather goods. This is particularly prevalent with high-street fashion accessories, where consumers want to embrace the classic leather look without investing in a premium item.
Because genuine leather is thinner than other grades of leather, it is commonly used to produce linings, coverings and upholstery. In fact, after the initial splitting process, split leather will regularly be divided into further layers, mainly between 0.5-0.8 millimetres (mm).
Genuine leather care
One advantage of genuine leather care is that it requires far less maintenance than other grades of leather. Every time excess dust or dirt builds up, or you spill a liquid on your item, you can merely wipe it down with a damp cloth. This simple routine will keep the product looking healthier for longer, although it will not dramatically affect the shelf life.
There is a wide selection of alternative maintenance products available. Conditioners and creams tackle the issues of cracking and peeling, and also have a moisturising quality that prevents leather from drying out. A leather polish can drastically improve the appearance of a well-worn genuine leather backpack or satchel.
Genuine leather: final thoughts & buying advice
Genuine leather may not match the quality or longevity of full-grain or top-grain options, but it still offers an accessible way to enjoy real leather. For those prioritising cost and appearance over durability, it can be a suitable choice, provided you understand what you’re buying.
When choosing genuine leather, always look beyond the label. Check details about the cut, grade and finishing process to avoid paying a premium for a lower-quality product. Once purchased, proper care is key. Regular cleaning and conditioning can help extend its life, and knowing how to repair cracked leather, treat wet leather, or get oil out of leather will help keep it looking its best. Choosing the best oil for leather can also make a significant difference in maintaining softness and preventing damage over time.
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